Argentina

On Dec 9, we have a coach guided tour of the “National Park of Tierra del Fuego.” It is a beautiful landscape of forest, glacial lakes, rivers, and streams. Later in the afternoon we board our expedition ship “Akademik Boris Petrov.” The ship is manned by a Russian crew and the expedition by Canadians. In the evening, the ship leaves Ushuaia to sail through Beagle Channel to Drake Passage.
The following 2 days we are crossing the dangerous Drake Passage, but surprisingly the surface of the ocean is like a water of a pond, very calm. There are interesting lectures on the ship. Late in the afternoon the second day we anchor at the Deception Island. Part of Antarctica it is a volcanic island surrounding an inner bay. The zodiacs take us to its shore. There are remnants of old whaling station here. I see my first penguins.
In the morning on Dec 12, we visit the Cuverville Island. After sailing the Gerlache Strait in the afternoon we land at Neco Harbour. In the evening, we stop at Paradise Bay, where is an Argentinean station. With those last 2 places, most of us visited all seven continents of the world. Next day our ship cruises the Neumayer Channel and visits Port Lockroy on the Wiencke Island with a British polar station. Then while cruising the Gerlache Strait further we meet a group of Humpback Whales and land at Portal Point in Charlotte Bay at the Antarctic Continent again. On Dec 14, despite the strong winds we land on Half Moon Island. Then along the Bransfield Strait we reach the King George Island and visit the Russian and Chilean stations.
Next 2 days we are crossing the Drake Passage back to Ushuaia, but this time there is a storm with large waves. Originally, we were to get to Cape Horn, but because of those waves, we are behind schedule and we must skip it.
By morning Dec 17, we are in Ushuaia. Though we are in time on the airport, there is delay and after the flight from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas our plane to Santiago is already gone. We then fly in the evening and with the stop in Puerto Montt we land in Santiago quite late and reach our Kempinski Hotel close to midnight.
Next day in the morning I climb Cerro (a mountain) Santa Lucia where the original Santiago was founded. In the afternoon, a walk through the center of the city. The temperature is well above 32 deg. C. Late at night some of us board a plane for Miami.
After 8-hour flight the plane lands in Miami in the morning on Dec 19. Here I take a TWA plane to St. Louis. Because of snow the airport in St. Louis is closed and our plane is in holding position. After 15 min. we can land. My flight to Los Angeles is cancelled. Later there is another plane available which takes off at 1 PM. After 3-hour flight it lands in Los Angeles. I pick up a car at AVIS and drive home to Vista, where at 5:20 PM.

Travel office: Marine Expedition (Canadian firm) through Robinsons-May Travel
Who took part: 22 North Americans

On Oct 17 “Lyubov Orlova” docksatFunchal on Madeira Island.It is an autonomous region of PORTUGAL with some 275k inhabitants. The islandis a 1,400m high volcano. Our 2 buses climb from the subtropical area at ocean level, past Mediterranean area to forestedtop. The houses cling to the hill-sides. When returning from the top we visit a church in town Monte, where the last Austrian Emperor and the Czech King, Charles I., is buried. Then we take a toboggan (sled) steered by 2 local men going down on cable stone streets. Back in Funchal I do walking on my own. City has a fort still in use by military. Then back to our ship. Next day on ocean.
On Oct 19 our ship is moored in Santa Cruz on the Tenerife Island, part of Canary Islands, an autonomous region of SPAIN.We depart for a whole day trip. From Santa Cruz our bus climbs the mountains to Laguna then to smaller town Esperanza. Later we see the highest point of Canary Islands and of Spain, the 3,717m high volcano Teide Peak. In winter there is snow on it. We enter “Park National del Teide” in a caldera of gigantic volcano.It is a moonscape. After lunch there is a stop at town Orotava with narrow and often steep streets. The last stop is in Puerto de la Cruz which has everything a beach lover would wish for. In the evening I explore Santa Cruz.
Overnight our ship crosses to the nearby island Gomera.There we are at the pier in San Sabastian. Here Columbus stopped in 3 of his 4 passages to America. There is a shore excursion of the island. Again, the island is mountainous and at places the narrow road is cut in the rocky outcropping and goes through several tunnels. Bus is passing through villages. Most of the center of Gomera is a national park. After return to San Sebastian some of us explore the town on our own. I visit an interesting church and let somebody show me the house Columbus stayed in. It is a Casa Colon Museum now. There is a tower in the town, a remnant of a fortress. Our ship leaves Gomera at night.
Next 2.5 days we are on the ocean. Every day lectures.On Oct 23 afternoon “Lyubov Orlova” docks in the Mindelo harbor of San Vincente Island of CAPE VERDE ISLANDS. I take a walk through the town. Next morning, we go for a trip.In the harbor there are 3 shipwrecks. We drive to the “Baia das Gatas.”The hilly countryside lacks any trees or bushes only grass and weeds. After lunch we have another trip to southern part of the island. Cape Verde Islandsare one of the poorest countries of the world.
On Oct 25 we are in Praia on Santiago Island, the capital of CAPE VERDE ISLANDS. A bus and minibuses take us for a day trip of the island. The capital has number of ministerial buildings. Outside the city we are ingreen countryside. We go through several villages. Houses do not have glass in the windows. There are wooden shutters instead. The school children have uniforms. Eventually we return to Praia.
Next 5 days we are on the Atlantic Ocean sailing south-south-east. On Oct 28 our ship crosses the Equator. That is welcomed by the Neptune celebration.
On Oct 31 we reach the Ascension Island (UK).First day we are circumnavigating the island. While there is greenery in the higher eastern part of the island, the lower altitudes are like a moonscape with many volcanic cones. In the afternoon we do birding from zodiacs off a tiny bird island. Underwater cables crisscross the island. The British have a garrison here. The Americans enlarged the runway, so Space Shuttle can land on it. The following morning, we get by zodiac to its only town, Georgetown. Minibuses are taking us around the island. Volcanic surface and no vegetation in lower elevation. A twisting road takes us in the mountains and lush vegetation. After returning from the mountains somebody points to a golf course. Its surface is volcanic sand instead grass. After lunch in a local restaurant we visit a museum. There are interesting collections of BW photographs from last 2 centuries here and old radio parts reminding me start of my carrier in Tesla. In other parts of this museum there are war memorabilia. While strolling the town I notice an “Exiles Club” (none-members welcome), Tesco store, Tourist Center, church, and a beautiful but empty beach. Late in the afternoonback to ship by zodiac. Next 2 days are spent on the ocean with more lectures.
On Nov 4 our ship drops anchor at Jamestown, St. Helena Island (UK). Zodiacs take us to shore. We have a collection of cars for the island tour. I get in a 1929 Chevrolet. We enter Jamestown through a gate in a city wall. There is a “Castle”on left. It was a fort, but it is administration building now. St. James’ Church from 1774 on the right. We are driving up the main street called Parade Groundsbordered by historical buildings. Above town we stop at Ladder Hill Fort. There are many forts on this island. St. Helena is mountainous. Another stop is at “Plantation House,” which is the residence of the governor. The wife of present governor shows us the building. In the garden we see a 200-year tortoise from Galapagos Islands. In higher elevation there is lush vegetation. Near the highest point of the island (818 m) we visit “Longwood House,” where Napoleon lived last 6 years of his life and died in 1821. When returning we see the place (picked-up by Napoleon), where he was buried. In 1840 his remains were brought to Paris. Our last stop is at “Briars Pavilion,” where Napoleon lived 2 monthsafter British brought him to St. Helena. We have free time in Jamestown and lunch in hotel Ambassy the only hotel on the island. There is a walking tour of the town with visits tothe “Court House” and the “Castle.” At 6 PM by zodiac to our ship.
Next 4 days we are sailing the South Atlantic.There are lectures every day. On Nov 9 our ship comes to Tristan da Cunha (UK). In this group there are 4 islands.They are Tristan da Cunha, Inaccessible, Nightingale and Gough.There are large waves and there is no harbor at the village called Edinburgh on Tristan da Cunha. We hope next two days there will be more opportunity to land there. Today we circumnavigate Tristan. The island is a large volcano 2,060 m (6,760 ft.) high. At the sea level there is the village and 3miles away are “The Patches” for growing potatoes, vegetable and even some fruit. After lunch we go on zodiacs to see some waterfalls and nesting birds on the island. The following day the situation is not better. No landing in the village a home to about 300 people. They fish for lobsters, process them and export. They have income from postage stamps, too. In 1961 a volcanic crater opened at the village. All people were evacuated to Scotland. They stayed 2 years there and when volcanic activity stopped they elected toreturn to Tristan. The third day several Tristaneans came to our ship with their souvenirs and stamps. They used a special ship which can take the waves. In the afternoon our ship pulls its anchor and sails south. It circumnavigates Inaccessible Island. Sheer rocks make it inaccessible. Then the Nightingale, where the people from Tristan have cottages. Next day we pass past Gough Island some 350 km southeast of Nightingale. Later our ship crosses to “Roaring Forties” known for stormy weather.
It takes 5 days in “Roaring Forties” & “Furious Fifties” to get to South Georgia. While on our way there, the waves are high. During lectures we sit on floor, because it is dangerous to sit onchairs. On Nov 15 we enter “Furious Fifties” and see first iceberg.
On Nov 16 before midnight our ship docks in town Grytviken on South Georgia Island, UK possession. South Georgia with its high mountain ridge is the most attractive island of South Atlantic. There used to bewhaling stations here and Grytviken was the last. Next day we visit the town with its falling apart whaling equipment, in sun resting fur and elephant seals and like doormen standing in their tuxedos“king penguins.”On local cemetery we see the graveof Antarctictraveler Shackleton.There are 3 people taking care of everything from a small museum and a post office to stamping our passports. Next 3 days our ship sails along the northeast coast of South Georgia visiting several bays, where we see more species of penguins, seals, and birds.
On Nov 21 we take course west and after 3 days on the ocean we come to Falkland Islands, UK, on Nov 24. In the morning there is a shore excursion of Stanley, the capital of the islands. Stanley is partly around a bay and mostly on an incline covered by nice looking houses. We drive through the town in a bus. There is a photo stop at a memorial of the 1982 conflict with Argentina. Thanks to that war the Falkland Islands entered 20th century. Then a visit to a museum and stops at other interesting places.An individual sightseeing of the town follows. Two large islands and many small form Falkland Islands. Next two days we do birding on 4 small islands.
We have a farewell dinner while sailing through Beagle Channel to Ushuaia. In the morning on Nov 28 “Lyubov Orlova” reaches Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, ARGENTINA.Ushuaia is the southernmost city of the world. We take a plane to Buenos Aires where at midafternoon. There is a sightseeing tour of the city. We stop in Recolleta cemetery at the tomb of Evita Peron, then we drive on the main street, “Avenida 9 de Julio,” do another stops at “Parliament” and at “Casa Rosada” a president’s office. The tour ends with a great Argentinian dinner, steak with French fries, vegetable and red wine.
An Aerolineas Argentinas planetakes me for a 10-hr flight to New York, USA, where in the morning on Nov 29. By bus and a subway to Manhattan. This time I do sightseeing of southern tip of the island. I go to Battery Park, then Trinity Church, Wall Street, and the World Trade Center. After that back to the JFK airport. In midafternoon I board a TWA plane for a 5h40m flight to Los Angeles. There I take a car in AVIS for drive home to Vista. I am there at 10PM.

Travel office: “Marine Expedition” through“Star Travel” in Carlsbad Mall
Who took part: 55 tourists, 62 Russian crews, 3 from Marine Exp. and 3 lecturers
The ship: “Lyubov Orlova,” 1,400 tons, 100.2 m long, 16.2 m breadth

Then Minerva II. follows the coast of Brazil on the Atlantic Ocean to anchor in the city of Fortaleza on Nov 17. After another day on the ocean we stop at Recife on Nov 19. Here we visit the city of Olinda in the morning and Recife in the afternoon. On Nov 21 we anchor in the city Salvador de Bahia which was 200 years the capital of Brazil. The city is divided in the lower and upper part connected by elevators. This is followed by another day on the ocean. On Nov 23 we reach Rio de Janeiro. From several trips I am choosing one to Petropolis outside Rio. There is an imperial palace built in the middle of 19 century in Petropolis. The following day I take a sightseeing of Rio to visit Sugar Loaf, Corcovado with the statue of Christ the Redeemer, Botanical Gardens founded 1809 and the famous beach Copacabana. After another day on the ocean we land in Paranagua on Nov 26. From there we do a day trip to city of Curitiba with most of its population from central, east and southern Europe.

Leaving Brazil Minerva II. takes two days to come to Montevideo URUGUAY. early in the morning on Nov 29. In the past Uruguay served as a buffer between Portuguese Brazil and Spanish Argentina. A day is devoted to sightseeing of Montevideo. It is a pleasant city.

Overnight to Buenos Aires in ARGENTINA.. During the morning sightseeing tour of the city we see Casa Rozada (office of the president) and the Cathedral on Plaza de Mayo, the bohemian Boca district and the well to do Recoleta with the cemetery with the tomb of Evita Peron. In the afternoon I go to Tigre Delta. It is a delta on the Parana River. We have a boat ride here. It is a beautiful place. Day after we have a trip west of Buenos Aires to an estansia in an Argentinean pampa. The estancia is a family ranch where they breed horses, cows and sheep. Local gauchos (cowboys) show us tricks on horses.

Overnight back to Montevideo in URUGUAY. where Dec 3. This time I take a bus tour 120 km west of the capital to Colonia del Sacramento (Unesco Heritage Site). This town still enclosed in walls was founded by Portuguese in 1680. Following two days Minerva II. braves the Atlantic Ocean. There are interesting lectures given on the ship.

Early in the morning on Dec 6 our ship lands back in ARGENTINA. at Patagonian town Puerto Madryn. While some people go to visit Welsh miners, I take a trip to the Valdez Peninsula a favorite place for National Geographic and BBC to film nature programs.

After a day on the ocean we spend Dec 8 and 9 on FALKLANDS ISLANDS.. It is my second visit here. There is the usual sightseeing tour of the main island and I also take a trip visiting places of battles in the Argentinean-British war in 1982. The British governor of the islands joined us for dinner on our ship and had an interesting lecture about the politics and economy of the islands.

Then another day on Atlantic. In the evening that day we sail past the Argentinean Staten Island where Julius Verne put plot of his novel “The Light at the Edge of the World.” In the morning of Dec 11 Minerva II. dropped its anchor in the Beagle Channel at the southernmost city of the world, Ushuaia. We are again in ARGENTINA.. Here we do a trip through “Tierra del Fuego National Park.”

Next day, Dec 12, Minerva II. sails to Cape Horn which belongs to CHILE.. We circumnavigate the little island with the Cape. From Dec 14 to Dec 16 we spend in Chilean city Punta Arenas, which is the southernmost city on the American Continent (Ushuaia is on the island Tierra del Fuego). During 3 days in this city I take a trip to Otway Bay to see the Magellan Penguins, rheas and other animals, I take the sightseeing trip of the city and I go 100 km north of Punta Arenas to an estancia in Patagonia, where a Chilean cowboy is called “huaso.” We also see some 25 Andean condors nesting on a rocky outcropping. Last day I visit a nature reserve on the Island of Magdalena in the Strait of Magellan.

On Dec 17 and 18 Minerva II. sails through the Chilean Fjordland with number of glaciers. On Dec 19 we anchor at Chacabuco harbor at the northern side of this Fjordland. From here I am taking a trip to the capital of Chilean Patagonia, Coyhaique. To get to it we have to overcome the Andes, which are lower here. Next day Minerva II. stops in the town Castro in the Chiloe Archipelago. The following day there is a stop at Puerto Montt. From here there is a tour to the Osorno Volcano. We also see quite a number or waterfalls. In the morning on Dec 23 our ship lands in the city of Valparaiso for 2 days stay. The first day I take a daytrip under the La Campana Mountain which Charles Darwin climbed in 1834. Our trip is led by a botanist from the Kew Gardens in London. The following day there is sightseeing of Valparaiso and of the resort town Vina del Mar. After several days on the Pacific Ocean Minerva II. reaches city of Iquique in the north of Chile on Dec 27. I join a trip to the used to be nitrate mines. It is in the region of Atacama Desert, which is the driest desert in the world. Back in Iquique there is a sightseeing of the city. The following day our ship anchors in the northernmost city of Chile, Arica. In the morning there is a trip to a valley with geoglyphs of old civilizations in Atacama Desert and in the afternoon a sightseeing of Arica.

On Dec 29 is our first landing in PERU.. It is in Matarani harbor from where we have a daytrip to the second largest city of Peru, Arequipa. It is inland some 2400 meters above the sea level and it has about a million inhabitants. Our visit of Arequipa is a holiday for local people. Who can, he shows in the main square, Plaza de Armas. For the city it is economically important day. There are many historical monuments both pre-Columbian and post-Columbian here. The following day we are on the Pacific and on Dec 31 we land in place called General San Martin. Here we board small planes for 12 people and fly above the Nazca Plain to take pictures of the large geoglyphs and lines on the ground. They are thought to have been made between 900 BC and 600 AD.

At noon Jan 1 our ship comes to Callao. It is a harbor for the Peru capital, Lima. While Minerva II. will continue its cruising, I am leaving the ship on Jan 2. The first day there is a sightseeing tour of the city, which was founded by Pizarro in 1535, the same year he with about 150 solders destroyed the Inca Empire. The most important in Lima is the Plaza Mayor with the important buildings including the Presidential Palace, the Cathedral, City Hall and others. Then we drive to two well to do districts with beautiful villas and two pyramids from pre-Columbian times. Later I take a taxi to Plaza Mayor to visit places which were not visited during the sightseeing tour from the ship. The last day we have a trip to Pachacamac near the coast which was used by the pre-Columbian cultures.

In the evening some of us are taken a flight to Toronto, Canada. Then I fly to Los Angeles and from there in a rented car home to Vista where in the evening 4.1.

Travel office: Swan Hellenic – a British Travel Company which rents Minerva II.

Who took part: I took 3 section of this cruise. Between Manaus and Buenos Aires there were almost 700 passengers (the ship was practically full), between Buenos Aires and Punta Arenas there were around 550 passengers and between Punta Arenas and Lima there were about 600 passengers. The ship Minerva II. had 32 thousand tons.